His blog posts are wonderful. This is the guy who attempted the double traverse in 2007. Up one side, down the other and then back. He gave up after realizing that he really was out of his league. Mostly because of Sherpa Phurba Tashi, who has ascended Everest 19 times, including three times in one season. As it says on Phurba Tashi's wikipedia page "Tait said that his decision was influenced by his belief that Phurba Tashi was a far superior climber and would have allowed him all the glory had they continued."
Few climbers reach that realization. Not to say that Tait isn't good at what he does. In 2009 he went up with the Sherpas who were placing ropes. So, a couple of weeks to a month before anyone else but the Sherpas would dare to think about it.
This was originally posted on Dreamwidth, after which it wandered out to various other sites. Feel free to reply where ever you want. I should still see it.